This CR250 Is Going To Rip! Cameron Niemela English Indonesian

This CR250 Is Going To Rip!YouTube↗ IA↗(long shot)
Autos & Vehicles 388.2K views 7.3K likes 189 dislikes 22 Mar 2019

Cameron Niemela 406K subscribers United States YouTube↗

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such a good feeling to be out in the shop you guys know what I'm talking

about it's so relaxing out here yet amps me up at the same time just feels

like this is where I'm supposed to be so anyways what we're doing today is we're

gonna be working on the cr250 project back here for you guys that haven't seen

that bike and for you guys that are new the channel I know there's a lot of

people coming on board these days my name is Cameron emo I work on

motorcycles for a living we've got AC or 250 project right here

125 back there a couple bikes back in the corner the number one question I get

from everyone what is the origin of your last name so it's pronounced Nemo uh

it's from Finland so my grandparents are from Finland were born there came to the

US and so that's the story behind that dang I realize that somebody's it's in

my face kind of ugly should turn the camera around alright the first batch of

parts we're gonna be installing is all these goodies from poison so I hooked up

with poison they sent over a bunch of cool stuff for this build have you got

ignition cover clutch cover reef cage and an exhaust port or exhaust flange

they call it so super excited to bolt all this stuff up so let's talk a little

bit about what a reed cage or rad valve as some call it actually does on a

two-stroke so say it's positioned like this on the bike this is your engine

side your carburetors over here you have air and fuel traveling in and

when they come into the crankcase or come to the engine these little petals

open right here they open up that flows through into the crankcase and then when

your engines on the downstroke meaning that air & fuel mixture is traveling

into the combustion chamber these are closed off

like they are now and so this piece right here has a pretty big impact on

the performance of your bike and so what does this particular rad valve do well

it's designed to improve the flow and velocity of that air & fuel mixture

traveling into the engine and that obviously increases the horsepower

numbers and efficiency of the bike and then these pedals are designed to last a

lot longer and obviously optimized for flow and

when a two-stroke is operating at max rpm these pedals are operating at

hundreds of times per second so if you have weak pedals like the stock ones

most of the time are those are gonna wear out pretty quick and you're gonna

lose horsepower numbers now I don't mean to turn this into like an advertisement

for Voisin just simply explaining what an aftermarket Reed cage or rad valve

will do for your bike and the exhaust flange this is optimized to improve the

pulse energy the exhaust coming out the engine which in turn is going to make

your throttle response better as well as bottom end power and for the ignition

cover and clutch cover those are built to be a little bit stronger than stock

and I think they just look cool and of course boys is sent over gaskets for

everything so pretty much just bolt on and go originally I was gonna use the

stock Honda covers that I had Sarah coated black compare these side-by-side

I don't know what do you guys like better leave it down below in the

comments section enough blobbin let's get to work I'm

gonna pull off the stock Reed cage along with stock exhaust flange here should be

a pretty simple task then I'm gonna compare them side-by-side to the boys

so here's the boys in red valve alongside the stock one now I wish I

knew more about how intake flow and velocity works but just looking at these

side-by-side you can see there is quite a big difference here in design and it's

interesting how the stock valve has eight petals they're all individual and

each port that the petal sits on is individual as well and you can see these

petals are pretty flimsy whereas the poison has a stronger petals there's

only four ports and just one big petal so quite a big difference in design take

a look at all this light coming through the stock petals that's pretty crazy Wow

let's compare that to stick one more did compare that to the Boysen kind of hard

to tell because this is quite a bit different design and those petals are

transparent but I'm gonna guarantee you there's not as much air or light coming

through these ones now for the exhaust flange this one looks like it's a little

bit taller not by much what I noticed is the inside bore is way smoother than a

stock one this one has a nice smooth finish on it stock one has that rough

cast look to it you can see it's got that rough cast finish inside of there

yeah that's definitely gonna affect the flow and the pulse pressure or the pulse

charge in your exhaust all right I'm gonna need to find some new bolts for

this stuff I can't believe I was gonna use this nasty corroded Hardware kind of

a hardware freak after doing all that zinc plating so I'm going to be using

this bolt kit and whatever I don't find in there I'll use the Tusk

kind of general bolt kit here so this is more of a specific kit for a CR CRF and

they've got a bunch of bike specific hardware in here

so this red valve just uses the stock intake boot and like anything with a

gasket surface you want to tighten in a crisscross pattern just so that

everything's going together evenly yeah it's nice to get some fresh Hardware on

there too looks a lot better now I just got a pump my electron car back into the

intake manifold and we will be set

I can't wait to pair that rad valve up with electron carb it's gonna be really

cool to see how they've worked together and once I get this thing up and going

I'm gonna trade the boys in valve out for the stock one and see the difference

between the two

alright let's find out how good these covers will look on the bike so since

the clutch cable goes beneath the ignition cover on this bike just feeds

through this hole connects to the lifter arm here I am gonna have to mount up my

clutch cable got a mushroom Pro brand one and it's always a good idea to lube

up beforehand even with a new cable

now in order to get to the clutch cover bolts this brake pedal is kind of in the

way so what I'm gonna do here is push this caliper in that should do and then

I'll be able to push down the brake pedal all the way and I'm gonna jam

something here to hold that brake pedal down now you can see we have access to

those clutch cover bolts

all right let's check out how this cover will go on the bike should look pretty

sweet honestly I think it's easier just to pull the brake pedal off it's kind of

a hassle getting this clutch cover on the brake pedal right there all right

so what I'd like to do when you have a cover that has a lot of mounting bolts

is get all your bolts in place make sure that gasket isn't pinched anywhere and

then tighten down all these bolts in a crisscross pattern that just prevents

anything from being warped or that gasket getting destroyed and then as far

as how tight they need to be these are only six millimeter bolts so the torque

spec is maybe only six or seven foot-pounds I'm not gonna use a torque

wrench for it just going to you could say use the torque wrench of my arm

basically going until I strip it and then back it out half a turn no not

really just that I don't know you kind of get a feel for it but I would say it

takes about the same amount of force to torque these as six foot-pounds as it

takes to turn a doorknob so basically I'm holding the bolt or holding the

ratchet like I'm opening a door or a handle so not much force at all and then

you want to build that pressure back up and your brakes just pump the pedal a

few times and then you're good to go damn that looks fresh what do you guys

think let me know down in the comments section so I've got an extra Poisson

exhaust flange here my buddy Geary who watches a channel sent this over

so big thanks to him but in comparing it to the stock flange you can see it's a

little different shape this is the 2003 flange it's got a round port to it and

this is more square shaped so I did some research and this is for a 2004 only and

obviously I have a 2003 so this isn't gonna work on there so if any of you

guys have a 2004 cr250 and you want a boys an exhaust flange these things are

super trick all cnc aluminum right down in the comment section below

cr250 and i'm gonna pick one whoops and i'm gonna pick one of you guys and give

you this exhaust Falange for free I'm gonna take a little break from the 250

and work on the car it's got to change the oil and fix up a couple thing

but I'd show you guys something pretty cool here got this valve it's got a

little lever on it and you just push it in twist it down or turn it down and

that's how you drain the oil pretty slick setup have this thing on

here for I don't know probably a year and a half and never had any issues with

it even with like driving through snow and having the snow pack up underneath

the car so I'll show you exactly how it works just pushing this little lever and

then bring it down and there we go I think they call it a food modo valve and

it sucks working underneath the car door winner constantly being dripped on

there's like icicles under here and everything looks like it's all finished

up draining just gonna go ahead close this thing back up make sure it's a

locked in that little groove so yeah those things are pretty slick gonna pop

on a fresh filter and add some oil and this engine bay is disgusting I mean

kind of neglecting it so the next thing I need to do is bolt on my mud flaps so

I've been rallying a little bit too hard and I ripped this mud flap off and then

kind of bent the bracket on this one

now the next thing I'm gonna do is clean up this trunk so I picked this thing up

on Craigslist looks like it's been sitting in the garage for a while and

it's got like this rough gritty finish or texture on the paint so the reason

I'm using a different trunk is because I'll be bolting up an STI wing to this

trunk and I don't want to drill into the factory trunk so I'm gonna use the clay

bar to clean up the paint on this one you probably can't see what I'm talking

about with this texture on the paint but just listen to it yeah it definitely

sounds pretty rough actually feels like 500 or 600 grit sandpaper

so hopefully that clay bar cleans all that up

check out how nasty that paint was this clay bar was white when I started and

now it's got like this orange or brown stuff all over it so there's still like

a yellow kind of brown haze on the paint here so I don't think the clay bar is

gonna cut it I'm gonna have to switch to a buffing wheel

no I'm definitely no detailing expert but after a quick buff this paint is

buttery smooth got all of that texture off of there just need to get my wing in

and I can get it bolted up so I definitely plan on doing more mods to

this WRX so let me know down in the comments section if that's something you

want to see on the channel hey guys so it's a few weeks later just finished

up with my very last treatment and it feels so good to be completely done with

treatments and just move on with life so I filmed a video from the hospital of

my last treatment kind of took you guys through the entire process and I put

that up on the channel a couple weeks ago so I would recommend you guys go

check it out I think you would find it pretty interesting so still working

through a few health issues but I think in about two to three weeks I'll be you

all good to go and I can just get back to work full time so if that being said

let's get back to work on the 250 and bolt the pipe up

got the pipe all mounted up and man that looks amazing on there

the fit and finish on the pipe isn't quite up to par though you can see on

this back mount it's kind of crooked here with the rubber damper so not quite

perfect there just kind of nitpicking this lower bracket you can see is not

the greatest-looking and also the rubber damper is a little

bit cocked to the side on this one as well up on the head portion the springs

are pretty stretched out so these two little tabs aren't quite close enough to

the engine once again not a huge issue the pipe mounted up it's on there looks

amazing as far as performance goes this pipe is supposed to increase the bottom

end performance so of course once we get the bike up and going we will delve into

that and see how that works oh and one more issue here you can see

the Kickstarter hits the pipe I might be able to fix this by moving the

Kickstarter up a little bit on the splines I'm gonna give that a shot and

see if it fixes it but the pipe is pretty close to the Kickstarter there so

for you guys that haven't seen this pipe on the channel yet it is called a DPR

cone pipe so it's all hand-built from individual sections of pipe here you can

see all those individual welds really cool looking there's only a few

companies out there that still make this kind of pipe for the cr250

there's DPR which is this one skel vini and there may be a few others

but it was kind of a debate between the DPR and the scaloppini if I don't like

this one I might just go ahead and buy the scaloppini and see how how that one

is but for now we're gonna rock it with this pipe so unfortunately I wasn't able

to fix this Kickstarter issue moving the Kickstarter up one position

puts the armor right in the way of the frame alright so up one spot and you can

see it's on the frame now so obviously that's not gonna work so I'm really not

sure what I'm gonna do about this I just have to run it with the with a

Kickstarter hitting a pipe like that not too happy with the fit and finish of

this pipe honestly not to bash on this pipe too much but actually how to clean

up the header portion of the pipe with a dremel to get it to fit on to the flange

here so kind of disappointing as well the next batch of parts will be

installing are the radiators and red radiator hoses

these are Mishimoto brand excited to try those out the pretty good quality and

for radiators these are just a set of nice stock ones gonna check out these

hoses real quick doesn't seem like they're super stiff like the Chinese

ones you get and from the looks of it they are multi-layered

so that's a good sign shouldn't have any issues with these ones I figured I

should probably bust out some fresh hardware and check out these bolts

aluminum drilled washers should look pretty cool on there

check this out it's gonna look sweet oh yeah

time to figure out how these are radiator hoses mounted it up so let's

start with the two that connected radiators to each other these ones right

here so this one goes on the bottom here so we might have to loosen up the

radiator just get that one in and then this one goes up top so connects to that

fitting there goes across the frame and over to that fitting and I don't think I

have clamps for this one so I'm gonna have to order some of those up so this

one is pretty straightforward I'm just gonna run it through a little

gap and then on this side through that gap as well

and now for this hoes I'm gonna loosen up this side radiator pull it out a

little bit that way I can get this hose in between the two of them got my clamps

on here hopefully this hose just slips right on to the radiator fitting there

we go I'm just gonna bring the radiator back over actually now that I think of

it it's gonna be easier to have this radiator loosened up to get the bottom

hose on so I'm gonna pop that one on real quick yeah it's this hose right

here that goes between the right radiator and the water pump so that

fitting right there connects to the bottom of the right radiator and I got a

little ahead of myself here got the pipe on it would have been a lot easier to

get this hose on without that pipe in the way but whatever we'll still get it

I'm just gonna feed this hose down behind the pipe and on to the water pump

and when you're putting the hose clamp on you want to make sure it's in the

correct orientation on some of these hoses if you put the hose clamp say that

way it may be hard to get to the head and tighten it down so for this hose I

am going to put the clamp on this way that way I can get to the head of the

so I'm gonna try to get the bottom hose on first and just push that hose right

up on to the fitting there we go and now for the connecting hose so this

connecting hose is being a little bit of a nuisance so I'm gonna spray some

silicone spray on it I'm using a Maxima SC one just gonna hit it with a blast of

this stuff and it should slip right on and the nice thing about silicone spray

is it'll help get the hose on but it's gonna dry up and it won't leave the hose

like slippery so that way you don't have to worry about it falling off later see

how easy that slip down yeah that's silicone spray is money now we've got

three hoses and T these are what connect two radiators to the cylinder head and

they can get kind of confusing so what I like to do is use a microfiber just

pictures on Google to figure out exactly how these go so I'm over here at Rocky

Mountain and they provide oh yeah microfiche is basically a Parts I grand

that show how everything is oriented so with the radiator set up we have a hose

coming off the right radiator one off the left and then one from the head and

they all meet at that T so in looking at that we can kind of have an idea how

those hoses go another thing I'll do is jump over to Google I just searched 2003

cr250 engine and I'll get these pictures that show up and kind of show how the

Arabia routing is kind of get an idea how that goes so definitely a huge

resource all right here's the hose that goes from the left radiator over to the

T just fits in here like this and up to the fitting and we've got the hose that

goes from the right radiator just fits up here onto that fitting

and down to near where the other host came out and that's where the tea's

gonna connect now the hose that connects to the cylinder head so there is a

shorter side and a longer side you want the shorter side facing the head and

that's gonna go right on to that one man that's gonna go great with that red

Fathead cylinder head looks pretty sweet and now for this little plastic t

section so that is gonna go to the left Raider to the right one and then to the

head and make sure you have all the clamps loose when you're putting this T

on because you might have to shift things around to get everything to line

up

we're only gonna tighten these up snug you don't want to go too tight and crush

that hose and by snug I just mean about to stay in the amount of pressure as

like turning a doorknob like I explained earlier so not really a ton of torque on

these clamps I've got all these hoses tightened up now and time to pop on the

overflow hose don't mind that nasty radiator cap I'm gonna replace that one

now I'm gonna route it down through here and in between the outlets on the bottom

of the radiator here just gonna keep it away try to keep it away from the

cylinder and the exhaust that way it doesn't melt on there and I'm gonna go

down by the motor mount just kind of tuck it right down here with the frame

and I'm just gonna zip tie it to the frame to hold it into position and then

up here at the fitting that's a pretty loose fit so I'm gonna throw a clamp on

that one as well all right I've got the radiators and radiator hoses all

finished up and the last thing we'll be installing today is one of my favorites

it is a works connection clutch lever and perch these things are super nice to

have makes the clutch lever pull that much easier and it's really important to

have that on a two-stroke so let's get to installing this

so I'm going to put this lever together on the bench and then I can slide it

onto the handlebars

alright so I'm gonna pop the lever into the perch but let me show you something

with this lever so here in the pivot of the lever it's got three separate

bearings you can see down inside there and that is what makes the clutch pull

so dang smooth these things are definitely a lifesaver on any bike

especially a two-stroke and as you would expect any spot that pivots or moos

needs to be greased up in order for it to work at its finest and also inside

the perch and then I could slide the two together also gonna put a little dab on

the pivot bolt as well and this would be a little bit tricky since the tolerances

are so tight on these levers trying to get this pivot bolt started inside the

lever it's like we got it going yeah you can definitely say I'm a man that likes

his lube everything I put together has to have grease or some sort of lubricant

in it that's for sure and it's especially important on a

clutch lever definitely got to have things greased up just gonna snuggle up

not too tight man that's about as smooth as it gets just got to put together this

cable adjuster now and once again this is gonna need a little bit of grease

here on the knob that's gonna slide in just like that and this is gonna pop on

to the perch and with that grease is super smooth time to slap this whole

setup on the bike and hook it up to the cable it's gonna slide this puppy right

onto the handlebars here get it tightened down

this boot right here is gonna go over the end of the cable sometimes it's a

little tricky to get on there you might have to squirt a little bit of Lube on

it to fit it over there we go slipped right on I'm gonna turn this

adjuster all the way in I'm gonna line up the gaps and the cable fits on to the

bottom of the lever here there's a little groove slide that through and

into the adjuster we've got quite a bit of free play there so it looks like

we're gonna have to do some adjustment on this cable right over here just gonna

turn these threads out on the table and that will lengthen the cable housing and

in turn will have less free play or kind of slop here on the lever so what I'm

gonna try to do is adjust most of it right here with this adjuster and then

come back over here and do the fine adjustments at the lever so to explain a

little bit more what this cable adjuster does on the lever is when you're out

riding and you notice your clutch start to fade a little bit when you go over a

jump or you have like a split second to make an adjustment you just roll this

thing forward like that obviously it's not gonna catch on your blood like that

and that will reduce the amount of free play here in the cable and give you your

clutch peel back so I'm gonna set the cable right there and then I'm gonna

make the fine adjustments you're at the lever hopefully I don't have to go too

far out with this cable adjuster now as far as clutch cable slack you want about

the width of a quarter here between the perch and the lever so pull slightly on

the cable and then pull the lever and cable apart from each other and you'll

be able to see the amount of slack there or the amount of gap here so that should

be like I said about the width of a quarter or three to four millimeters

that's the general rule of thumb you can go looser than that if you prefer you're

right here we have about a but you definitely don't want to go any

tighter than about two millimeters there or else you'll risk frying your clutch

so right there you can see there's very little movement there and that's gonna

burn up the clutch pretty quickly so with a cable all hooked up and adjusted

I noticed the clutch lever pole was really stiff and it's usually not

characteristic of a works connection lever so I figured something was up it

should be as light as this pole here in the 125 I have the same lever just one

finger is all it should take so I started diagnosing what was going on

here so the first thing I did was adjust the cable all the way back in give us a

bunch of slack and then come down to the engine here pull the cable off of there

that way it's not engaging with a clutch actually and now I can test the see if

it's in a cable routing or something in the lever or the cable itself so I'm

using the lever up top here and you can see at the bottom it's moving and it's

just buttery smooth no issues whatsoever so that eliminates any problems with the

cable routing or issues with the lever so I'm going to move on to the actual

clutch over here and so I pulled all the springs off this could be a clutch

spring issue or possibly something to do with the push rod going through so how

I'm going to test that is by holding this clutch pressure plate pulling in

the lever and seeing how the clutch lever feel is it's super smooth then

that means everything is good to go all the way up from the lever through the

cable to the lifter armor on the other side and then through the push rod to

this side that means all of that is good and it's an issue with the clutch

springs so let's go ahead and test that so I'm gonna hold the pressure plate

with one hand and pull in the lever with the other yeah that is super smooth as

well so that means everything is good to go and I'm gonna move on to

swapping out the clip Springs with the stock ones okay so I put in the stock

clutch Springs so let's go up to the lever and see how this feels

ooh not good that's a two finger one finger ain't gonna do it yeah that's

still no better at all so hmm you know I'm kind of thinking is I don't have any

gear oil in there and so obviously nothing's lubed up and that could

possibly be the issue so I think I'm gonna stop right here wait till I get

gear oil in there and actually run the bike and see if that improves the clutch

pull at all that's gotta be the issue because I

diagnose everything else check through everything else and everything seems

fine as soon as I put pressure on that pressure plate it wants to get really

stiff so I'll update you guys once I get oil in there and we'll see if that fixes

the issue I've got everything with the clutch

button back up and one thing I thought it would show you with this perch that I

find pretty cool and something I use quite a bit all night 125 is the lever

reach adjustment it's a little screw down here the allen head and so

adjusting that screw changes the distance from the bars to the lever so

you can really fine-tune it for how big your hands are or just general

preference so definitely a really cool feature to have all right that is gonna

wrap up the video so this time around we got quite a bit down the bike really

stoked at how it's coming out some things didn't really go quite to plan

but that's just how it goes sometimes at least we're making progress just want to

say thank you for watching the video and for those of you that stuck behind me

the last eight months while I was going through my little journey with cancer

gotta say a big shout out and thank you to you as well means the world that have

all your support so from here on out look for videos on a lot more consistent

basis hopefully two or three a week and spring is right around

corners well so hope to be doing some writing too so if you enjoy the video

make sure you share it with your buddies and that's really all I ask of you

oh and one more thing I will be at Seattle Supercross this upcoming weekend

March 23rd so keep an eye out if you see me out there

come say what's up I would love to chat with some of you guys until next time

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